Getting Around Paris

My first trip to Paris with kids, I had not done my homework. My eldest was about a year and a half, and I hopped in a taxi from the airport with her. No car seat. The peripherique in a taxi with a toddler and no car seat? Never, ever again.

Since that time, despite breakdowns and strikes, I have become a huge fan of RATP. And now that I have the RATP app on my iPhone, I can’t wait to go back!

Seriously, the metro in Paris is incredibly easy to navigate. The only glitch that I have ever encountered is that the ticket machines often do not accept my credit card, as my AMEX lacks a “smart chip.” (Likewise, the gas pumps in France reject my cards for the same reason.) So I always make sure to have enough tickets that I’ve bought during “business hours.” Once I did get stuck — no cash, no ticket — but a super kind Parisian came to my rescue. (Scratch that image of the unfriendly French, please.)

The maps and trains are clearly labeled. Remember to hold onto your train ticket after entering the station. You may (1) need it to leave if you are at an RER station and (2) be required to show it to a police officer at a check (this has happened to me).

As for traveling with kids, I have just a few comments:

1. There are reduced fares for children available. Definitely visit the RATP site to look for the right “package” for you before you go. Carnets of T+ tickets or the ParisVisite pass might work well. Also check for “closed station” information before you go.
2. Unlike other cities, the metro stations themselves are tourist destinations. Someday I would love to buy a photo/history book about the metro stations. So many of the stations are unique and reflective of the area in Paris that they are located.
3. There are stairs. Be prepared to haul the stroller. However, once inside you can often get the RATP rep to open the special gate for you to get through.
4. Some transfers are LONG! I avoid Chatelet at all costs for this reason.
5. At times the stations and trains can be very crowded. Have a plan for what to do if you somehow get separated in the crush.
6. The bus may be a better option. While the system is extensive, that makes it a little more difficult to understand. (One thing about the bus that has ALWAYS bothered me – whether in DC, Scotland, Japan, France, or wherever — is that you are supposed to indicate BEFORE your stop that you want to get off — how are you supposed to know if you’ve never been there before?? Ask the driver. Generally they are more than happy to help out.)

   I have ridden the bus a few times with no problems and hope to do so more during this upcoming trip — any advice is welcome!

Though once we discovered the Air France Bus Service, I’m 50/50 on RER from Charles de Gaulle Airport into Paris. But I’ll save that for another post.

Paris Metro